![]() It’s OK if the foam is compressed a little. If it’s too tight, use sandpaper to trim the foam blocks, or just remove one side of the outer box, insert the inner box, and then replace the outer panel. Make sure it’s a tight fit, otherwise it can float out of position when you pour the concrete. Insert the inner form inside the outer form (Figure P). Then tape a block on each side, 2″ up from the bottom (i.e., flush with the bottom of the plywood) (Figures N and O). Using more duct tape, attach one foam block to the bottom of the inner form. Using 2″-wide duct tape, attach 2 pieces together by wrapping tape around all 4 edges to make a 2″-thick block (Figure M). Figure K Figure LĬut out 10 pieces of 1″ foam, each 5½” square. Once the concrete has set, the foam blocks are removed to create the windows.īuild the outer and inner form boxes as shown (Figures K and L). The outer form is a simple box the inner form is a smaller box with foam blocks duct-taped to each wall. This form is trickier - it creates negative spaces inside the box to make the windows. Now build the column form (Figure G), which is a simple box shape, and next the cap form, which is a small piece, but is 2 forms built into one (Figures H, I, and J). ![]() Since this is a complex shape, it’s a lot easier to use duct tape to hold the pieces together, and the shape of the form (a truncated pyramid) actually makes for a sturdy mold using just the tape. Next build the canopy form (Figures C,D, E, and F). ![]() Note that you’ll use this mold twice: for both the base and the pedestal top. I used 1½” screws to fasten the walls to the base, but 1″ are probably fine. Starting with base/pedestal top form (Figures A and B), cut all pieces as indicated, then screw them together. If desired, you can sand down rough spots or smooth them with wood filler. You’ll use mainly 1″ screws, or simple 1″ angle brackets with ½” screws, to connect the plywood pieces together. You can download PDFs of the full-size diagrams or click the images below to view them in your web browser. The lantern has 6 pieces: a base, column, pedestal top, window box, canopy, and cap. You can use a smoother grade of plywood if you want a smoother finish. I used inexpensive CDX grade, which leaves a subtle wood grain texture on the concrete. While making this lantern is not difficult, there are lots of steps, so for the sake of brevity I drew some diagrams that Makers can follow.Īll the forms for casting the pieces of the lantern are made from 5/8″ plywood. This lantern is my design it’s not based on any particular build, but it’s representative of many traditional garden lanterns. When I came back home, I decided to build one myself. A ubiquitous feature of Japanese gardens is concrete and stone lanterns in endless shapes and sizes. I was in Japan eight years ago and like a good tourist, I went to many Japanese gardens, which were amazing. Gift the gift of Make: Magazine this holiday season! Subscribe to the premier DIY magazine todayĬommunity access, print, and digital Magazine, and more Share a cool tool or product with the community.įind a special something for the makers in your life. Skill builder, project tutorials, and more Get hands-on with kits, books, and more from the Maker Shed Initiatives for the next generation of makers. Membership connects and supports the people and projects that shape our future and supports the learning.A free program that lights children’s creative fires and allows them to explore projects in areas such as arts &Ĭrafts, science & engineering, design, and technology. ![]() Microcontrollers including Arduino and Raspberry Pi, Drones and 3D Printing, and more.
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